Tuesday, October 7, 2008

Australia - Cairns - October 6

BREAKFAST WITH THE BIRDS

A pretty lorikeet joined us for breakfast at the Rainforest Habitat Centre. We enjoyed all the tropical fruit with passion fruit and star fruit being new to us although we’d had passion fruit juice before. After breakfast, we had a guided tour through three sub-climate areas: rainforest, wetlands, and grasslands. We saw more birds, animals, crocodiles, and fruit bats.

A coach ride along a steep climbing road took us to the little town of Kuranda which reminded us of a hippie village with lots of tourist shops. We had a look around the shops before lunch of fish and chips. As today’s guide said, these activities and field trips are just to fill the time between meals.

Next we had a tour of the Butterfly Sanctuary. There we got to see many native butterflies and their developing caterpillars as well as learn how they are fed at the sanctuary. It was harder to photograph them than the birds!

Next came a sky rail ride over the rainforest canopy. We were amazed at the colors that were evident in the dense growth of plants. Although we couldn’t see any animals, we could certainly hear many birds and cicadas. When we got back to the hotel, we had snorkeling practice in the pool in preparation for tomorrow’s trip to the Great Barrier Reef. A lecture on the reef by a marine biologist preceded dinner.

WOW! What a contrast tropical Cairns is from the arid center of Australia!

Australia - Ulura and Kata Tjuta - October 4 and 5 am

ROCKIN’ AUSTRALIA

We arrived at the Uluru-Kata Tjuta National Park and went immediately to the Cultural Centre where we were told the “dreamtime” story of two snakes. The female snake had brought her eggs (represented by fallen rocks in the landscape) to the monolith Uluru, an Aboriginal sacred site. She found that her nephew had been wrongfully killed by neighboring snakes while being disciplined for a wrong with spears. (The holes on the rock represent the spear marks.) She flew into a rage and hit the offending snake two blows which first stunned him and then killed him, thus, avenging her nephew’s death. (There are two large gouges in the rock showing his wounds.) Next her body intertwined with that of her dead nephew to form a large snake that guards the water hole that she had dug in her original rage. (It actually had a bit of water in it from some recent rain.) If the aboriginal people don’t care for the water hole appropriately, the guardian snake dries up the water as punishment.

Each group of Aboriginals has their own dreamtime stories that somehow intertwine with those of their neighbors although none of them have a deity. The dreamtime stories teach morals, the consequences of behavior, and acceptable ways to deal with behaviors.

We walked on two trails of Uluru. We went into two caves that had wall paintings. One seems to have been a classroom to teach the meaning of the pictures which are still used in aboriginal communication today. One of the caves also had a honeycomb ceiling caused by erosion. This huge rock is composed of fine sand sediment. Since it is a sacred site, we were asked NOT to climb the rock or to take photos of the men’s and women’s caves which are used for special ceremonies.

We joined lots of other tourists and tour coaches on the sand dunes in front of Uluru to take photos at sunset. We took photos every 5 minutes in order to capture the gradual color changes of the rock. However, we never got the brilliant reds and purples of the postcard photos. We did, however, get a group photo. Our tour guides had set up a “celebration” of sparkling wine and snacks as well as providing folding camp stools for us to use. One end of the rock seemed to look like a sheep’s head, appropriate for Australia with many sheep!

Here's a photo of our Elderhostel group with Uluru in the background.

Notice the "sheep" on the right side of the mountain? At least it looked like a sheep to us.

On Sunday we traveled about 30 minutes to visit Kata Tjuta which means many heads. There are 36 distinct rock formations formed from sediment flow from the same mountain range that formed Uluru. However, this sediment contains much more rock. We saw one rock that looked like a turtle. Since this is another sacred, men’s ceremony location, little is known about the beliefs concerning these rocks. We enjoyed a walk to one of the gaps between two rocks. There were several new flowering plants along the walk. The desert does have a beauty of its own. Following lunch at the hotel, we were off to the Ayers Rock airport for the flight to Cairns (pronounced “cans”). More next time on our visit to Cairns and the Great Barrier Reef.

Saturday, October 4, 2008

Australia - Alice Springs - October 2-4

THE RED CENTER

A morning flight from Melbourne took us on the only flight of the day to Alice Springs. WOW! What a difference in landscape. From a large metropolis, we’ve landed in an arid area in the midst of a drought. The annual average rainfall is only 10 inches. However, the total so far this year is only 1 ½ inches. Alice Springs has a population of 28,000 with 1,000 of them being USA citizens associated with the “spy center”, a space tracking station. The town reminds us of some of the laid-back areas of Hawaii. Several of the permanent residents are people who came out on holiday, loved the close contact with nature and decided to stay.

After check-in and lunch, we headed out to the Alice Springs Dessert Park. That field trip included a guided tour through the large aviaries and nocturnal house which houses hard-to-find and endangered marsupials and reptiles. There are three distinct dessert environments in which were depicted typical landforms and native flora.


Here's our "fearless leader" for the center of Australia - Martin.

Here's a picture of spinifex grass; common across the Australian outback.
Here's a little guy called a Thorny Devil. It's he cute? He looks mean, but we're told his thorns are soft.

Isn't this a beautiful bird? This little guy is called a Fairy Wren. Rosie worked hard to get this shot. The afternoon lecture was on Aboriginal culture and heritage with some discussion of the “Dreamline” (Creation).

On Friday morning, a field trip to the nearby Western MacDonnell Ranges took us to Simpson’s gap where we saw black-footed rock wallabies. There we saw a water pool as well as quartzite formations which were red from iron oxide. The river red gums (eucalyptus) are prolific although the riverbed is completely dry. However, the water table is fairly high. You can dig several inches into the sand and find water.
Can you see the Rock Wallabies in the middle of the photo? They didn't move the entire time we were there.
Next we went to Standley Chasm where we saw cycad which is palm-like plants leftover from the dinosaur age. We also saw ghost gums and the shiny red walls of the gap. However, before we walked the chasm, we had time for "morning tea."An afternoon excursion to Alice Springs School of the Air showed us how distance learning for 115 students (currently) in an area twice the size of Texas is carried out by computers now although earlier teaching was done by radio transmission. After primary school, these students go to boarding schools with about 90% of the students attending university. A visit to the Old Telegraph Station showed the 19th century engineering marvel of a telegraph line that was built from Adelaide in South Australia to Darwin in the Northern Territory that connected Australia to the rest of the world through Java. Because of weak signals, relay stations were required every 150 miles to send the signals. The actual springs - named after the first station master's wife - is located behind the station. Interestingly, the "spring" isn't a spring at all, but simply water seeping up through the sand.That evening we had a “Barbie” of steak and fixin’s with a local fellow providing Australian songs accompanied by guitar while we ate. Later Barry had the group join in singing songs like Waltzing Matilda, Tie Me Kangaroo Down, etc. Bob and Kitty got to be "the band" accompanying Tie Me Kangaroo Down. Later there was a “night sky” lecture which was hampered by a cloudy sky. The Southern Cross was too low in the sky to be seen. However, we had been able to see it both in Canberra and Melbourne so we weren’t too disappointed. A very early morning start saw us on the bus headed for Uluru (Ayers Rock). We stopped at a local camel farm where we took advantage of a camel ride. Camels were brought to Australia originally to be used as pack mules for expeditions and delivery "vehicles" to the outback. Once the trains came through and they were no longer needed, the camels were turned loose on the land where they have survived and procreated quite well. It’s currently estimated there are 500,000 wild camels in the Outback. They are considered “pests” since they are competing with and therefore, endangering indigenous animals as well as cattle.
During the 300 mile drive, we passed only 8 cattle stations (ranches) where cattle are allowed to roam before being sent to market for use as meat. Much of the beef is exported to other countries - some even comes to the USA in the form of hamburger meat.

Australia - Melbourne - September 29 - October 01

On Monday morning, we caught a Qantas flight from Canberra at 6:40am to Melbourne, Australia. We arrived in Melbourne at about 8 am. After getting our bags, we found the Elderhostel leaders, Phil – for the whole tour and Don – for Melbourne, waiting to meet the direct flight from Los Angles. Most of our tour members were on this flight.
We left the airport by bus and headed for the Shrine of Remembrance. Originally built as a tribute to the soldiers of World War I, this is dedicated to all of the war dead from the state of Victoria. Inside the memorial is a floor plaque with the inscribed words: “Greater Love Hath No Man” (from the Gospel of Matthew). On the 11th day of the 11th month at 11 am, sunlight comes through an open window of the shrine and illuminates LOVE on the plaque. In today’s high tech world, this is replicated every 30 minutes by a beam of light. The effect is still neat, but it loses some of the uniqueness. We left the shrine and visited Fitzroy Gardens where we saw Cooks Cottage (actually his parents’) which was moved from Great Britain and also the spring floral display in the conservatory. From here we went to our hotel to check in and have a surprisingly good buffet lunch. After an orientation lecture on Melbourne and Australia, we headed out on the bus to the second tallest building in Melbourne. From here we got a panoramic view of the entire city. Here’s just one picture showing the neat architecture of the city. It’s a great blend of old and new. The folks who flew in from LAX were ready to crash. They did a great job of staying awake!

Tuesday morning we had two lectures. The first was an introduction to Australia and its people. This was an excellent overview of the founding and development of Australian culture. Next, we had a brief overview of opals, the national gemstone of Australia. The cultural overview was great; the opal overview was miss-able since we weren’t interested in buying any gems while in Australia.

After the morning session, we headed over to the Victoria Market for a little sightseeing. There were outstanding fruits, vegetables, meats, and fish as well as many open air stalls. We used our “lunch money” to purchase German Brats with sauerkraut—delicious! After lunch we left the hotel for a trip to Phillip Island to see the Little Penguins (or formerly known as “Fairy” – which today isn’t PC). On the way to Phillip Island we stopped at an Australian animal park. We got to see several additional indigenous animals – the Tasmanian devil, the kookaburra, and the wombat. We also had a chance to get up close to some gray kangaroos. At the Penguin Parade on Phillip Island, we were not allowed to use cameras – couldn’t even bring them into the area. The penguins start coming on shore just after sunset after fishing all day. They then waddle back to their burrows (or whatever you call their home). They came ashore in groups of 4 to 20. We got to see them up close. They were really cute and hardworking. We got back to the hotel at about 10 pm. Here’s a photo of the “little penguins” at the Taronga Zoo in Sydney. There are two of them swimming in the tank. On Wednesday morning we went to the Ian Potter Center at the National Gallery of Victoria. We had an excellent overview of Australian art by Dr. Ruth Pullin. She teaches art history and compares Australian art to European and American art of similar periods. She also gave us an overview of Aboriginal art and its importance to the Aboriginal culture.
After leaving the art center, we got some photos of the local area. First, here’s a photo of St. Paul’s church. It’s interesting to note that the spires were added after the church was built. The difference in stone color is obvious in person; don’t know if it comes out well in the photo. This is the bath house which was originally used by the local population for actually taking baths. Today it’s a state of the art gym facility with indoor pool, so there’s still the water connection. Next is a photo of Young and Jackson’s Pub. This was a favorite “watering hole” of American (and Australian) troops during World War II. They went there to “pay homage” to the nude painting of the French Chloe. Finally, here’s a photo of the Findley Central Train Station.