Sunday, March 27, 2011

South Point

As we traveled on Hwy 11 near the southern tip of the island, we saw a sign to South Point (12 miles). The road used to be pretty bad but has been improved over the years - at least most of it. It was very windy while we were there. According to the local TV weathermen, the trade winds were blowing unusually strong while we were on Hawaii. That's good to know. I'm glad the level of wind we had wasn't typical. However, by looking at the trees it was easy to tell the direction of the prevailing winds.Also, the presence of multiple wind-farms suggested the area was rather windy.When we got to the southern tip, we saw several folks fishing. Supposedly the excellent fishing in this area attracted the early Polynesian adventurers to the island.Since there isn't a lot of sand to make the water cloudy, it's very clear.The view from the southern point is fantastic. However, you need to be careful - the next stop is Antarctica.

The Place of Refuge

When Hawaii was ruled by chiefs and priests, there were basically two classes of people: the upper class and the lower class. In addition, there were a significant number of laws that were painful for the lower class. For example, the shadow of a lower class person could not touch a chief or upper class person; a lower class person couldn't walk where an upper class person had walked; men and women could not eat together - you get the picture. If a lower class person committed a crime, the punishment was typically death (as in immediate). However, if the person could get away quickly to a Place of Refuge, he could perform the designated ritual (as prescribed by the priest) and return to their village as if nothing had happened. Neat huh?

When we arrived, most of the park was blocked off due to tsunami damage - bummer. There were replicas of houses around the grounds.
There was also a typical island "board" game on display (minor point - played on a stone slab; not a board).Here's a replica of the temple which was separated from the rest of the area by a wall.Rosie is able to make friends anywhere.We also saw places where lava had flowed around trees; the trees eventually rotted out but left their imprint.Looks like this guy had a bad day!This was a neat area, but we didn't get to see much of it. Once the entire park is open I'm sure it will be a great area to visit. We were also told that turtles typically feed on the rocks near the park. No turtles while we were there.

The Painted Church

After leaving the Place of Refuge, we started back up Ke Ala o Keawe road towards Highway 11. On the left we saw the Painted Church Road; we turned up the road to see St. Benedict's Catholic Church which is better known as the Painted Church. The church was built back in the 1800s. However, between 1899 and 1904 Father John Velge painted frescoes on the inside walls and ceiling of the church. The church was neat, but the paintings are in need of a little refreshing.

Here's the outside of the church.
The gardens around the church are very nice.
Rosie getting ready to enter the church.The paintings are well done and add a lot to the interior of the church.
The painted church was nice, but it was one of those stops that didn't take very long. You can view the Church and paintings in 30 minutes or less.

The Coffee Shack at Captain Cook, HI

As we drove up Highway 11 and were getting hungry, Rosie consulted the guide book for recommendations on places to eat. We were near the Coffee Shack (near Captain Cook, HI) and decided to stop.The food at the Coffee Shack was outstanding. This is supported by the fact that we ate there four times during our stay in Kona. Here's Rosie in front of their sign. I'm heading into the restaurant. FYI - it was typically hard to get a parking spot in front of the restaurant.The view from the deck where we ate was great.They grow their own coffee and also have a huge avocado tree with lots of fruit on it.The deck came complete with geckos. Here's a gecko with a sweet tooth.If you're ever in this part of Hawaii, we highly recommend breakfast or lunch at the Coffee Shack.

Coffee Tour - Fike Farms of Hawaii

The world's supply of Kona coffee is grown on the west side of Hawaii at elevations from 800 to 2000 feet. The combination of rainfall, weather and volcanic soil produce a very rich and low acidic coffee. At five years a coffee tree is mature. The red coffee beans on the trees are called "cherries", and they must be hand-picked. A tree is hand-picked several times during the harvest season (August through February) with only the red cherries taken and the green ones left to ripen.

Rosie called the Fike Farms of Hawaii to see if they had regular coffee tours. The new owner, Darcy Ames, invited us to come out and tour the farm. Darcy gave us a great tour of the farm, made us some great Kona coffee and then ground coffee for us to buy. We had a great time.

Here's a picture of mature coffee trees.
The coffee tree is related to the gardenia. You can tell this from a close-up of the white coffee blossom.Here's a picture of the red cherries on a coffee tree.Inside the cherry is the coffee bean. Typically each cherry has two coffee beans.The coffee beans have a slimy mucilage coating that is removed by fermenting in water for 12-18 hours. After fermenting the beans are washed with a water spray and then placed on a concrete floor to dry. The beans typically take 3-7 days to dry to the target 11% moisture. During the drying process they are raked (or turned) regularly. The dried beans are now known as parchment.

In a huller, the parchment is removed from the bean. Here's a picture of the bean and the parchment.
The finished beans are then sorted by size and packed in 100 lb sacks. The sacks then head to the roasters to be roasted into coffee. They are then sold as whole bean or ground coffee.

Here's Darcy grinding our coffee beans for us.
Darcy also made some delicious Kona coffee in her vacuum coffee maker. Here she is getting it ready to go.As the bottom part is heated, the water vapor is pushed into the top part of the coffee maker. Once all the water is gone, the heat is turned off. As the pot cools, the liquid is pulled back into the bottom part by the vacuum created during the boiling process.The coffee was delicious (and strong - just the way we like it)!

Thanks Darcy for a fun and interesting coffee tour.

The Kona Tiki - our hotel on the west side

After leaving the Volcano Inn and driving south, we next headed up the west side of Hawaii. After multiple stops that you've probably read about, we came to our hotel in Kailua Kona - the Kona Tiki. It was a rather small hotel (15 rooms) and definitely not fancy (cement building built in 1953). The rooms had no TV or phone; however, we did have free wifi for our laptop.Kona Tiki had received some damage from the tsunami that struck Hawaii. The carpet on the first floor got wet and was in the process of being replaced. Luckily we had a room on the second floor so there were no issues when we came to check in (I had called ahead of time). Also, the pool was damaged and repair was underway.

The view of the sunset over the ocean was great. We enjoyed the views each evening. However, the low clouds didn't give us the clear view we wanted.This little guy met us at the entrance to our room.The view from our balcony was nice.However, the sound of the waves was rather noisy and stayed that way 24/7. Since we had no air conditioner, we had to leave the windows open at night. Luckily we got used to the noise after about the second or third night (maybe it was just exhaustion).

Every night at sunset, the Kona Tiki had guests light the tiki lamps and blow the conch shell. Rosie and I got "volunteered" one night. Here we are at various spots around the hotel. The idea is that you blow the conch as the tiki lamp is lit. The guests end up forming a loose family network, sharing tips and experiences.As I said the Kona Tiki isn't a fancy hotel, but we didn't spend much time there either. They did offer a small continental breakfast in the morning which saved us time. Also, it's located on Ali'i Drive and a short walk from the middle of town (or at the least the tourist part of town). We were also able to jog/walk along Ali'i Dr. in the morning. We could recommend the Kona Tiki to anyone visiting the Big Island.

Saturday, March 26, 2011

Kekaha Kai Beach

A lady at our hotel told us about a beach that was just passed the airport (about a 20 minute drive from our hotel). Kekaha Kai beach was fairly small, clean and well protected. As with most things on Hawaii, we drove on a road cut through a lava field to get to the beach parking. We then had a short walk down to the beach. The beach had very white sand, clear water and some small waves for boggie boarding.There were a lot of people boggie boarding by the time we left. This guy got an early start. We could really tell the difference in skill level between the locals and vacationers.As we drove along this part of the island, we saw a lot of graffiti made by using white coral (from the beach) to make a design against the black lava rock. Many were simple initials but some were quite artistic.